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i looked in my hood and noticed this serpentine belt. does it need replacement? it’s not making any squeeking noises car runs fine for being about 16 years old. IMG_4074 1920×2560 686 KB
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I am planning to start using seafoam in my gas and oil ,how often should you a add it an how much.The label isn’t to clear about it.
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2005 dodge neon. This was a problem a few months ago. The cable going from ignition to shifter was the problem. I removed the cable at the ignition, and it worked perfect. Till today. Again, the key will not move either way. Is it the ignition this time? is it something else? The starter sol has been going bad I assume for a while. once in a great while I have to lightly tap on the solonoid to get it to turn over. i assume not related. I have been planning to soon take off and get tested at auto zone. i started a new topic because the old one i could not find
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2004 Camry with about 160K miles (and I hope to drive it until the kids take away my keys in a few years). For the last month or two, sometimes when I’m slowing gently almost to a stop, I get what I think is ABS activation: loudish fast pulsing sound (roughly five pulses/sec; almost a vibration) that I can feel in the brake pedal. Maybe more likely on a slow speed turn while braking (I do a half-K turn to back into my driveway). Is that ABS? Does this require fast attention? Would my mechanic’s code readers be able to find any useful codes? (Or do I just report the symptom and let him/them inv
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CR3 (2022-현재) · 1.5T AWD
I drive a 97 Honda Accord and just recently started experiencing an issue where while driving, my ignition suddenly shuts off. Sometimes when this happens I’m able to turn the key and get the ignition started right back up while coasting, but usually forces me to coast to the side of the road instead to throw it in park and restart ignition (instantly, no sputtering). This problem seems to occur most frequently while driving at low speeds or stopped at a light or sign. Despite the ignition cutting, my headlights and radio, etc remain on leading me to believe that the battery is fine. I’ve take
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This refers to a problem with my car, based on comments on the “Hit curb 10mph brand new Corolla - mild vibration after” thread. Also, reference to the thread which I posted on exploding three tires in a very few days on my 2009 Mexican Sienna, due to road hazards. Someone on the Corolla thread commented that low profile tires cause a lot of maintenance problems. My tires are 235/60R17. Would those be low profile tires? I have never had tires explode like that before, ,and so I was blaming (besides being my fault, of course, for not missing those road hazards) on the Euzkadi tires. I have no i
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I am trying to troubleshoot a 4runner with 135k miles, auto, 3.4 V6 California emissions. This is the freeze data: PID Description Value Units 0x02 Freeze frame DTC P0420 - 0x03 Fuel system status Closed-loop, using oxygen sensor feedback to determine fuel mix - 0x04 Calculated load value 34.12 % 0x05 Engine coolant temperature 197.6 F 0x06 Short term fuel % trim - Bank 1 0.78 % 0x07 Long term fuel % trim - Bank 1 3.91 % 0x0C Engine RPM 2287 RPM 0x0D Vehicle speed 68.97 MPH 0x0F Intake air temperature 95 F So far the front and back Ox sensor was replaced and the MAF cleaned to clear a P0171 co
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FE1 (2021-현재) · 2.0 하이브리드 자동
We have a Honda Civic Hybrid with 204,000 miles on it. It’s my wife’s car and she commutes fifty miles every day in it. Late last week her IMA (hybrid battery) light came on. The last time this happened was 7 years ago. The battery pack was under warranty at the time and Honda replaced it. That warranty has since expired. We are going to take it into a Honda dealer to have the problem evaluated, but we’re trying to do our homework in advance. My wife is worried that she’s going to be told that the battery needs to be replaced. There has been no decline in vehicle performance - yet. She tells m
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My Pilot is lighting up a catalytic converter code on the dashboard. My Boch Honda dealer service is quoting $1,037 for the replacement part and more than $600 for the labor. Does that make any sense? The car has 180,000 miles on it. Should I just go with non-Honda parts?
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MV (2023-현재) · 롱레인지 AWD
In a recent column a reader asked about a plug-in hybrid and the status of the gas. The discussion also mentioned the possibility that the 12v “starter” battery could drain over time. I don’t know about other cars but the Kia Niro has an “override” that can use the EV battery to start the car. That was the situation when we originally bought our Niro. There is a button on the dash that, if the 12v battery will not start the car, enables the starter to pull the necessary power to start the car. The battery then charges as normal. We have had no starting problems since that initial situation whe
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when im on the highway driving for 30 minutes to an hour, the throttle feels like it just goes dead for a few seconds. Eventually after 5-10 seconds it kicks back on and the truck jerks and starts driving normal. It can happen a minute later or 15 minutes later but it normally lasts for just 5-10 seconds. It has happened getting off the highway when starting to accelerate after a stoplight and the truck wheels stopped and the truck didnt stall so i cant imagine its spark or fuel issue. it never has really happened on short drives or even idling for long periods of time. It doesnt happen around
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the car has been leaking oil. it had been leaking oil for over a year now but she just kept driving it. it’s coming from somewhere above and not to drain plug. in one pic it might seem like it’s the drain plug but it is not. i wiped it down and there was no more oil dripping for hours. the drip or leak only occurs after it’s been driven. IMG_4223 750×1334 248 KB IMG_4220 1920×2560 1.07 MB IMG_4221 750×1334 88.7 KB IMG_4222 750×1334 269 KB there has been a leak for over a year. we drove this car on. 3 hour road trip in the last year and back. the car runs. i did two oil changes personally. just
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Any chance someone can tell me what’s going wrong here. I’m used a titan 3/16 double flaring tool and nicopp. It keeps giving me this weird stepped flare. I’m not sure what to call this issue so I didn’t know what to look up. I’m doing my best to get a square cut, then I chamfer the outside with a file and chamfer the inside with a utility knife until there’s no burrs. I’m sort of worried that the screwing motion of the tool is messing with it somehow and instead I need a press tool. What’s weird is I did get one sort of good flare but couldn’t replicate it. It’s also made a few good flares us
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2003 Hyundai Santa Fe will start then die. Then it will not start. After pumping the accelerator or holding on the floor and returning later it will start. Nothing codes out. This happens probably 15% of the time. Any ideas?
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Hey! The key to my 2006 Ford Mondeo wont open the hood for some reason… This is particularly bad due to the battery being dead after not being used for a few months. Anyone have any tips to fix this problem? (If its possible to fix) Additional information would be that the key fob usually works around 40% of the time so i resorted to using the manual key mostly, but now the manual key does not turn in the door either, so i’m pretty much hoping that the key fob will work if i want to use my car. Rather not go to a mechanic, broke student Perhaps issue with the electronic lock? Maybe its locked
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Problem began when I would sometimes have to press the push start button several times to get it to start (no crank), progressively got worse until it wouldn’t start. When I would jump it it wouldn’t start right away but eventually it would. Replaced (5 year old) battery), initially still wouldn’t start until jumped. Car then started fine for 4-5 days and I thought it was fixed until symptoms returned and again progressively got worse. Now I can’t get it to start even when jumped. Notes: When it won’t start it doesn’t crank at at all, it acts as if the button is not being pushed. There is an a
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When the temp drops below 28 degrees , my manual transmission in my Plymouth Laser 1992 (same as Eclipse) will refuse to shift into reverse. It just feels sloggy , stuck ( other gears work fine) . Now if the sun is out and the cabin itself warms up, the transmission will shift in reverse if the outside is below 28 degrees which seems to tell me the problem is in the linkage with the actual hand stick. Can this be repaired? When I described this to my mechanic , he said you have to replace the transmissin. After 33 years , can't this be a lubrication issue ( I changed the tranny fluid with synt
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The old winter car 98 Lesabre has been acting up recently. Monday when a few miles from home it started going between gears upshifting and downshifting and giving a decent clunk when starting from a dead stop, Checked the Trany fluid level and it was not low, A bit over full. It sat in the yard for maybe an hour, and I took it for a ride, It worked perfect. Tuesday it worked fine till 10 miles from home and did the same thing. I went slow and made it home No problem. When this happens the cruise control never works. Today the transmission worked well, the cruise did go out for a short time the
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2014년식 · JK (2006-2018) · 3.6 V6 Sport
I need your opinion for a bud. About five months ago, I took my 2014 Jeep Cherokee to a mechanic I hadn’t used before (I’m new to the area). They told me the transmission needed to be replaced. They said they sourced one from a parts dealer and that several other components had to be removed or replaced to install it. The total came to a little over $4,000. Since then, I’ve barely driven it due to health issues. Last week, I tried to go to church. When I shifted into reverse, it was very rough—just like before the replacement. Then I put it in drive and it got stuck in neutral. I called the sh
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Hello everyone, Civic 8th gen Sedan 1.8 6MT (European), at 80k miles i have a problem since I bought it 2-3 years ago. When you accelerate from low speed or from standstill position on low gears 1 and 2, the car stalls and (heavily) judders for 2 secs when you leave the clutch pedal then continues normal. It happens on both gears 1 and 2. This generally happens when the car is still cold (but weather hot/cold doesnt matter) and when you drive uphill. It does not feel like clutch dragging but rather mechanical however I am not sure. Last summer I cleaned the throttle and EGR, also tried with EG
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Well, I think I’m not the only one running into this problem, and I hate losing a post (especially if it was a long one), so hopefully this will help someone out. I’m talking about when you are in a thread, you reply to someone’s post, and then want to make another reply in the same thread. You hit submit for the 2nd post, and the page reloads, but wait a minute…where the heck is the 2nd reply you just submitted? This is the work-around I’ve found…either go back to the main index and click back into that thread and make your reply, or look at the address bar at the top of your browser and you’
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2012년식 · JK (2006-2018) · 3.6 V6 Sport
2012 Jeep Compav compass I noticed a persistent squealing coming from thr front end of my car (I think the front left). It happens when I have my foot on the accelerator and over 40-45 mph. It stops when I let my foot off the gas, and only occurs under load. This alone would take me to the engine, but it responds to me turning the wheel. It gets louder when turning right and quieter when left. It also stops when I let off gas. My original thought was brakes, but I wanted to see if the community had an idea. Thanks!
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2018년식 · ACV70 (2017-현재) · 2.5 자동
Steering wheel is becoming harder and harder to turn right or left
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Hi, friends. Anyone know which of the two hoses on the power steering reservoir is the return line? I need to change the fluid in my 94 Camry with the 2.2 l. Alternatively, is there an easy way to differentiate between return and suction?