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Hi all, These are the issues of a Maserati 1990 (Quattroporte) 422, 2000 SL.6 cylinders, fule injection.The car lives in Greece, and is in pristine condition. 1) The rpms go up when the engine is idle (no gear?) e.g when you stop at a light. Apparently this is an unexpected behavior. Could you give me a list of possible reasons? 2)When we start the car and/or go from 1st to 2nd gear, the engine doesn’t “fire” right away. There is a lag, as if the car stops. Thanks Vasso

Hello! I have not driven my car for a month and now have this noise. It is a 2016 V Jetta and normally in great shape. The noise is in the background and sounds like something soft is rubbing against something. It picks up at 10 mi/hr or so and then stays on…Thank you! https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/3X/3/f/3f6ae6628ea80cf8d6b1899d0b2392d868545516.mp3

i looked in my hood and noticed this serpentine belt. does it need replacement? it’s not making any squeeking noises car runs fine for being about 16 years old. IMG_4074 1920×2560 686 KB

쉐보레 말리부

2019년식 · 8G (2015-2023) · 1.5T 자동

냉각수 교환

Temperature Guage doesn’t work, fan on motor runs, air conditioner doesn’t work when this happens and message says, “steering assist reduced, drive with caution.” Replaced temperature coolant sensor, still having problem.

I am planning to start using seafoam in my gas and oil ,how often should you a add it an how much.The label isn’t to clear about it.

I have been chasing this overheating problem for a couple of months now, and I am thoroughly frustrated. The first issue was a hole in a short, S-shaped hose that goes from the the air bleed valve on the top of the water pump, to a metal line that goes back to the heater coil…I think. After this fix lasted for a month, I decided to change the thermostat…what a pain in the arse! After changing the thermostat didn’t fix the problem, I decided to flush the radiator. After starting the engine to run the flush through the engine, a broken three prong elbow connector cleat in the upper back of the e

2005 dodge neon. This was a problem a few months ago. The cable going from ignition to shifter was the problem. I removed the cable at the ignition, and it worked perfect. Till today. Again, the key will not move either way. Is it the ignition this time? is it something else? The starter sol has been going bad I assume for a while. once in a great while I have to lightly tap on the solonoid to get it to turn over. i assume not related. I have been planning to soon take off and get tested at auto zone. i started a new topic because the old one i could not find

Put in reverse goes great. Put it in drive it takes a while before it moves. Seems like it’s in second slow

2004 Camry with about 160K miles (and I hope to drive it until the kids take away my keys in a few years). For the last month or two, sometimes when I’m slowing gently almost to a stop, I get what I think is ABS activation: loudish fast pulsing sound (roughly five pulses/sec; almost a vibration) that I can feel in the brake pedal. Maybe more likely on a slow speed turn while braking (I do a half-K turn to back into my driveway). Is that ABS? Does this require fast attention? Would my mechanic’s code readers be able to find any useful codes? (Or do I just report the symptom and let him/them inv

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2007년식 · ACV40 (2006-2011) · 2.4 자동

배터리 교환

My 2007 Toyota Camry has a 2.4l engine 4 cylinders and it’s at about 197,000 miles. I’ve been going crazy trying to figure out while the engine is vibrating horribly when at a red light and it’s a lot worse with the ac on. I’ve changed motor mounts, checked evap purge valve, cleaned maf sensor, cleaned throttle body, bought an aftermarket pcv valve from advanced auto parts, I even bought a smoke machine from Amazon and smoke tested the evap system and found a easy leak after the maf senso rand sealed it but that didn’t do much. I’m not sure if it matters since it’s before the maf sensor but th

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CR3 (2022-현재) · 1.5T AWD

배터리 교환

I drive a 97 Honda Accord and just recently started experiencing an issue where while driving, my ignition suddenly shuts off. Sometimes when this happens I’m able to turn the key and get the ignition started right back up while coasting, but usually forces me to coast to the side of the road instead to throw it in park and restart ignition (instantly, no sputtering). This problem seems to occur most frequently while driving at low speeds or stopped at a light or sign. Despite the ignition cutting, my headlights and radio, etc remain on leading me to believe that the battery is fine. I’ve take

Hi everyone! I recently bought a 2016 Tacoma SR5 2.7L 4WD with 70k mi. At idle in D or R like at a red light (idles around 550rpm) the truck vibrates. Sometimes it’s bad and shakes my head and eyes and feels like someone is kicking my seat. It tends to get worse the longer I sit at a red light. It’s worse with the brake pedal pressed, but happens a bit in drive with the parking brake on and not pushing the brake pedal. There are tons of threads about this on the tacoma forums and there doesn’t seem to be “one” solution for everyone. I have cleaned the MAF and throttle body without much or any

This refers to a problem with my car, based on comments on the “Hit curb 10mph brand new Corolla - mild vibration after” thread. Also, reference to the thread which I posted on exploding three tires in a very few days on my 2009 Mexican Sienna, due to road hazards. Someone on the Corolla thread commented that low profile tires cause a lot of maintenance problems. My tires are 235/60R17. Would those be low profile tires? I have never had tires explode like that before, ,and so I was blaming (besides being my fault, of course, for not missing those road hazards) on the Euzkadi tires. I have no i

My 2015 Elantra with 130K miles has developed a problem It stalls occasionally, and then the Tachometer goes to 0 and stays there even after I restart the car. After it stalls, it then hesitates and loses power, almost like it is the wrong gear and the tachometer never moves from 0 even while driving. . If i pull over and then restart it after just a couple of minutes, the problem clears up. No more hesitation, the tachometer reads the RPM, etc. The mechanic can’t find anything wrong with it. Did a complete computer scan of something like 11 systems and no problems are indicated. HELP. I love

I am trying to troubleshoot a 4runner with 135k miles, auto, 3.4 V6 California emissions. This is the freeze data: PID Description Value Units 0x02 Freeze frame DTC P0420 - 0x03 Fuel system status Closed-loop, using oxygen sensor feedback to determine fuel mix - 0x04 Calculated load value 34.12 % 0x05 Engine coolant temperature 197.6 F 0x06 Short term fuel % trim - Bank 1 0.78 % 0x07 Long term fuel % trim - Bank 1 3.91 % 0x0C Engine RPM 2287 RPM 0x0D Vehicle speed 68.97 MPH 0x0F Intake air temperature 95 F So far the front and back Ox sensor was replaced and the MAF cleaned to clear a P0171 co

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2020년식 · YK1 (2016-현재) · 3.5 V6 AWD 자동

엔진 마운트 교환

This question seems to provoke a lot of folks on the Ridgeline forum, where I originally asked. People either hate VCM or think it’s fine. I was considering a VCM stopper device. I see a lot of arguments that make sense on both sides of the discussion. My 23 Ridgeline RTL-E is smooth and if I didn’t know VCM was in there, I’d never notice. The reason I asked (am asking) is from the standpoint of longevity. I’ve heard multiple mechanics whom I respect say they don’t like it. In their opinion, it can lead to build up in cylinders and wear out rings, as well as premature wearing of engine mounts.

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FE1 (2021-현재) · 2.0 하이브리드 자동

배터리 교환

We have a Honda Civic Hybrid with 204,000 miles on it. It’s my wife’s car and she commutes fifty miles every day in it. Late last week her IMA (hybrid battery) light came on. The last time this happened was 7 years ago. The battery pack was under warranty at the time and Honda replaced it. That warranty has since expired. We are going to take it into a Honda dealer to have the problem evaluated, but we’re trying to do our homework in advance. My wife is worried that she’s going to be told that the battery needs to be replaced. There has been no decline in vehicle performance - yet. She tells m

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2018년식 · ACV70 (2017-현재) · 2.5 자동

변속기 오일 교환

WHEN ACCELERATING FROM DEAD STOP IN A RIGHT HAND TURN UP-HILL CAR IS SLOW TO MOVE FORWARD REQUIRING MORE PRESSURE ON GAS PEDAL, THEN TRANSMISSION SEEMS TO BE HUNTING FOR RIGHT GEAR CAUSING A JERKY MOTION.

My Pilot is lighting up a catalytic converter code on the dashboard. My Boch Honda dealer service is quoting $1,037 for the replacement part and more than $600 for the labor. Does that make any sense? The car has 180,000 miles on it. Should I just go with non-Honda parts?

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2012년식 · U502 (2011-2019) · 2.3T AWD

냉각수 교환

Been a long day. Im not good at putting pictures on here. So ill try again. This is on my 89 year old moms ford explorer.its a 2012 she bought new. 3.5 engine. All work has been done at the local Ford dealer. 75k miles. I looked it over and decided to check the air filters and a few other things. I noticed the coolant looks pink, it should be orange. She has ever receipt from the dealer service. Its never had any work done involving coolant. Just tire rotation and oil changes. Sad to say she’s never even had them change the air filters. So im wondering why does the coolant look pink? 20260102_

기아 EV9

MV (2023-현재) · 롱레인지 AWD

배터리 교환

In a recent column a reader asked about a plug-in hybrid and the status of the gas. The discussion also mentioned the possibility that the 12v “starter” battery could drain over time. I don’t know about other cars but the Kia Niro has an “override” that can use the EV battery to start the car. That was the situation when we originally bought our Niro. There is a button on the dash that, if the 12v battery will not start the car, enables the starter to pull the necessary power to start the car. The battery then charges as normal. We have had no starting problems since that initial situation whe

A buddy and I were trying to replace his right front wheel hub, on his 2008 Chevy Impala LTZ. He described the engine size as 3900, I would think that means 3.9 liter, although I didn’t know there is a 3.9, I only know of the 3.8 liter and 3,1 Liter. One of the mounting bolts is so tight that the socket would not keep a grip on the bolt head, no matter how hard we tried to force the socket onto the bolt head. We had tapped on it as best we could with a hammer and metal rod, we heated the area with a torch, no luck. Of course, very little access to this bolt head, so impossible to use an impact

when im on the highway driving for 30 minutes to an hour, the throttle feels like it just goes dead for a few seconds. Eventually after 5-10 seconds it kicks back on and the truck jerks and starts driving normal. It can happen a minute later or 15 minutes later but it normally lasts for just 5-10 seconds. It has happened getting off the highway when starting to accelerate after a stoplight and the truck wheels stopped and the truck didnt stall so i cant imagine its spark or fuel issue. it never has really happened on short drives or even idling for long periods of time. It doesnt happen around

Good morning. Recently I conducted a search on why, after long-term storage of my car about 5 months, one of my tires pressure was 4psi lower than the others. I had set them all a little high, 40psi for storage. Upon returning, three of them had dropped to 35psi - the weather was colder - but one was at 32. Google results included the obvious - a tire puncture, but I think that tire would have been flat after 5 months storage. They also suggested checking the vaves and the stem cores. So I purchased a 4-in-one tire tool, and using the valve stem core side I checked the cores. 4-way-Tire-Valve-