정비 사례

the car has been leaking oil. it had been leaking oil for over a year now but she just kept driving it. it’s coming from somewhere above and not to drain plug. in one pic it might seem like it’s the drain plug but it is not. i wiped it down and there was no more oil dripping for hours. the drip or leak only occurs after it’s been driven. IMG_4223 750×1334 248 KB IMG_4220 1920×2560 1.07 MB IMG_4221 750×1334 88.7 KB IMG_4222 750×1334 269 KB there has been a leak for over a year. we drove this car on. 3 hour road trip in the last year and back. the car runs. i did two oil changes personally. just

토요타 캠리

2015년식 · ACV50 (2011-2017) · 2.5 자동

정기점검

I’m considering buying a 2015 Toyota Aygo that’s reporting this DTC code: P1604 (Startability Malfunction) - Toyota P1604 Code: What It Means and How to Fix the Startability Malfunction - Daily Car Tips (From what I’ve found online, it means that sometime, the engine either failed to start, took too long to start, or started and cut out within 2 seconds.) I’m trying to find out how serious this is: Could it be an intermittent problem or something that occurs only in certain conditions (such as in cold weather - in the last few months; I’m in Dublin, Ireland: minimum winter temperature about -4

Any chance someone can tell me what’s going wrong here. I’m used a titan 3/16 double flaring tool and nicopp. It keeps giving me this weird stepped flare. I’m not sure what to call this issue so I didn’t know what to look up. I’m doing my best to get a square cut, then I chamfer the outside with a file and chamfer the inside with a utility knife until there’s no burrs. I’m sort of worried that the screwing motion of the tool is messing with it somehow and instead I need a press tool. What’s weird is I did get one sort of good flare but couldn’t replicate it. It’s also made a few good flares us

Do you perfer a ASE certified and one which has a degree or are you satisfied with a tech that has “been doing this for 30 years”? Do you look for ASE plaqueard at your mechanics shop?

My 2015 Elantra with 130K miles has developed a problem It stalls occasionally, and then the Tachometer goes to 0 and stays there even after I restart the car. After it stalls, it then hesitates and loses power, almost like it is the wrong gear and the tachometer never moves from 0 even while driving. . If i pull over and then restart it after just a couple of minutes, the problem clears up. No more hesitation, the tachometer reads the RPM, etc. The mechanic can’t find anything wrong with it. Did a complete computer scan of something like 11 systems and no problems are indicated. HELP. I love

토요타 캠리

2007년식 · ACV40 (2006-2011) · 2.4 자동

배터리 교환

My 2007 Toyota Camry has a 2.4l engine 4 cylinders and it’s at about 197,000 miles. I’ve been going crazy trying to figure out while the engine is vibrating horribly when at a red light and it’s a lot worse with the ac on. I’ve changed motor mounts, checked evap purge valve, cleaned maf sensor, cleaned throttle body, bought an aftermarket pcv valve from advanced auto parts, I even bought a smoke machine from Amazon and smoke tested the evap system and found a easy leak after the maf senso rand sealed it but that didn’t do much. I’m not sure if it matters since it’s before the maf sensor but th

현대 싼타페

MX5 (2023-현재) · 2.5 T-GDi 자동

변속기 오일 교환

Here’s the backstory, For the past 3 months, upon shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear, the car lurches forward in a hard shift. Sometimes, it is nothing more than a benign “clunk”, and other times it is violent, as if hitting a wall. This does not happen every time it shifts and even under identical acceleration, the results vary from none to violent. The number of violent shifts vs. small jolts has increased over time, and all other transmission functions and shifts are fine/normal. After much time researching the inter-blogs, I have come to no consensus on what is causing this or how to fix it. So

현대 소나타

2008년식 · NF (2004-2009) · 2.0 LPi 자동

냉각수 교환

Coworker has a 2008 Hyundai Accent, which has overheated repeatedly, consumes a lot of coolant, and barely runs. He wants me to assist with repairing the engine, if possible. I assume by now, the head is warped or cracked, but what I am trying to determine is if the engine block in this model is iron or aluminum. If it’s iron, this can probably be repaired. If it’s aluminum, the entire engine would need to be replaced, which is more work than I would want to do.

지프 랭글러

2016년식 · JK (2006-2018) · 3.6 V6 Sport

미분류

My 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited with a 3.6L started taking a few seconds to start. Ran a scan and there’s no codes.

Hi, friends. Anyone know which of the two hoses on the power steering reservoir is the return line? I need to change the fluid in my 94 Camry with the 2.2 l. Alternatively, is there an easy way to differentiate between return and suction?

Now and then my 2016 Sonata Hybrid will start shaking. The first time it happened, I was on the highway and it felt like I was driving over (mild) speed bumps (but I wasn’t). When it happens, which isn’t frequent, it usually happens on the highway less then 10 minutes after entering and it lasts less than 30 seconds (but feels like forever). The check engine light will turn on, but when I get the check engine light’s records checked (which I’ve done 3 separate times), they never see any record of it coming on. Admittedly, besides getting oil changes, I don’t get any regular maintenance done. A

혼다 CR-V

2014년식 · RM (2012-2017) · 2.0 자동

드라이브샤프트 교환

I drive a 2014 Honda CR-V. My steering wheel vibrates whenever my car speed is between 30-40 mph. Once past 40 mph, the vibration stops completely. While most explanation mentions about bad CV joint, motor mount, loose lug nuts, unbalanced tires, stuck brake caliper, etc but it doesn’t address the issue as to why it only vibrates between 30-40 mph and not before or after. It is very steady even from 60 mph and beyond. Any idea what is the problem?

I have been chasing this overheating problem for a couple of months now, and I am thoroughly frustrated. The first issue was a hole in a short, S-shaped hose that goes from the the air bleed valve on the top of the water pump, to a metal line that goes back to the heater coil…I think. After this fix lasted for a month, I decided to change the thermostat…what a pain in the arse! After changing the thermostat didn’t fix the problem, I decided to flush the radiator. After starting the engine to run the flush through the engine, a broken three prong elbow connector cleat in the upper back of the e

Hello! I have a 1999 Honda Accord EX 4cyl automatic with 227k miles. I’ll post a more detailed description below, but here’s the tldr: my car stalled after driving about 10 miles and stalls again if I try to turn it off and back on unless I wait 5-10 minutes. This does not happen every time I drive. I am thinking about replacing the distributor, main relay, and ignition switch, but want to make sure I’m not missing anything.

Hello! I have not driven my car for a month and now have this noise. It is a 2016 V Jetta and normally in great shape. The noise is in the background and sounds like something soft is rubbing against something. It picks up at 10 mi/hr or so and then stays on…Thank you! https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/3X/3/f/3f6ae6628ea80cf8d6b1899d0b2392d868545516.mp3

지프 랭글러

2014년식 · JK (2006-2018) · 3.6 V6 Sport

변속기 오일 교환

I need your opinion for a bud. About five months ago, I took my 2014 Jeep Cherokee to a mechanic I hadn’t used before (I’m new to the area). They told me the transmission needed to be replaced. They said they sourced one from a parts dealer and that several other components had to be removed or replaced to install it. The total came to a little over $4,000. Since then, I’ve barely driven it due to health issues. Last week, I tried to go to church. When I shifted into reverse, it was very rough—just like before the replacement. Then I put it in drive and it got stuck in neutral. I called the sh

A buddy and I were trying to replace his right front wheel hub, on his 2008 Chevy Impala LTZ. He described the engine size as 3900, I would think that means 3.9 liter, although I didn’t know there is a 3.9, I only know of the 3.8 liter and 3,1 Liter. One of the mounting bolts is so tight that the socket would not keep a grip on the bolt head, no matter how hard we tried to force the socket onto the bolt head. We had tapped on it as best we could with a hammer and metal rod, we heated the area with a torch, no luck. Of course, very little access to this bolt head, so impossible to use an impact

If so, we want to hear about it! (If you can bear to recount the sordid details, that is.) For the next few weeks, we’ll be gathering your favorite or, rather, least-favorite tales of road trips gone by. Stories of 2,000 miles spent with a brutish Mother-in-Law ordering you to slow down, every single mile. Tales of roadkill in the grille, engine fires, and vacation days spent in lonely backwaters, waiting for that new fan belt. You can post your roadtrip from hell stories right here. We’ll pick a few of our favorites, and share them with our listeners in a few weeks. And, as always – thanks! T

Well, I think I’m not the only one running into this problem, and I hate losing a post (especially if it was a long one), so hopefully this will help someone out. I’m talking about when you are in a thread, you reply to someone’s post, and then want to make another reply in the same thread. You hit submit for the 2nd post, and the page reloads, but wait a minute…where the heck is the 2nd reply you just submitted? This is the work-around I’ve found…either go back to the main index and click back into that thread and make your reply, or look at the address bar at the top of your browser and you’

혼다 CR-V

2017년식 · RW (2017-2022) · 1.5T AWD

타이어 교환

My 2017 Honda front wheel drive CRV has 21k miles with two original tires each with 6/32 tread remaining and two new tires due to non-repairable punctures. After the first new tire, the TPMS recalibrated correctly. However, after the second new tire, the TPMS monitor system warning continues to come on after a few miles of driving after TPMS recalibration commands. In my first discussion (telecom) with a local Honda dealer (where I bought the car) service advisor, I was told that I need to buy two more new tires so there would not be such a tread depth discrepancy. I expressed my dismay that I

지프 랭글러

2012년식 · JK (2006-2018) · 3.6 V6 Sport

브레이크 패드 교환

2012 Jeep Compav compass I noticed a persistent squealing coming from thr front end of my car (I think the front left). It happens when I have my foot on the accelerator and over 40-45 mph. It stops when I let my foot off the gas, and only occurs under load. This alone would take me to the engine, but it responds to me turning the wheel. It gets louder when turning right and quieter when left. It also stops when I let off gas. My original thought was brakes, but I wanted to see if the community had an idea. Thanks!

1993 f150 4.9 5 speed manual Having bucking issues while accelerating. When I got the truck a month ago, it would only happen once in a while. Mainly on the highway and would just cut out for a few seconds then kick back on. I ignored it and it drove very nicely. No matter the load or rpm, it drove fine. Until a couple weeks ago it was cutting out again. I noticed the voltage gauge was going crazy. I noticed the bolts attaching the alternator case together were loose. I tightened the bolts and haven’t had an issue for a few weeks…. Until Yesterday, I started the truck and started driving and i

포드 F-150

2021년식 · 14세대 (2021-현재) · 2.7T XLT

배터리 교환

If I open the driver side door on my F-150 while the motor is running the transmission locks in gear and will not let me put it onto park which would allow me to crank it. I can disconnect the battery cables and it will eventually put itself into park and I can crank it. This has been going on for several months. When it first started it would reset in 30 mins or so but now is taking overnight. I’ve not tried it to see if this happens with any other doors bc I don’t want to intentionally make it happen. HELP and thank you.

혼다 어코드

2020년식 · CR2 (2017-2022) · 1.5T 자동

드라이브샤프트 교환

2020 Honda Accord. I’m now realizing that the lower ball joints use self locking clinch nuts. Have never heard of clinch nuts before. Anyways the service information says to replace them. This is with regards to the lower three nuts that goes onto the studs, as opposed to castle nut that goes on top under the cv axle. See lots of people on youtube doing repairs which requires removing these nuts, and they go ahead and use the same old rusty nuts right back on. image 667×557 32.8 KB Looking online at this type of self locking technology. It is mostly used in sheet metal. A hole is drilled into