정비 사례

Hi everyone! I recently bought a 2016 Tacoma SR5 2.7L 4WD with 70k mi. At idle in D or R like at a red light (idles around 550rpm) the truck vibrates. Sometimes it’s bad and shakes my head and eyes and feels like someone is kicking my seat. It tends to get worse the longer I sit at a red light. It’s worse with the brake pedal pressed, but happens a bit in drive with the parking brake on and not pushing the brake pedal. There are tons of threads about this on the tacoma forums and there doesn’t seem to be “one” solution for everyone. I have cleaned the MAF and throttle body without much or any

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2018년식 · ACV70 (2017-현재) · 2.5 자동

사고 차량 점검

SEVERE HIGH IMPACT FRONT AND REAR COLLISION, NO AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT. VEHICLE HYDROPLANED, STRUCK CONCRETE CENTER BARRIER, SPUN THREE TIMES ACROSS 3 LANES OF HIGHWAY AND HIT GUARDRAIL IN REAR. NO AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT. I HAVE ONLY UNLOADED FRONT PICTURES, SITE WOULD NOT ALLOW MORE THAN 5 PICTURES. PLEASE CONTACT ME FOR THE REAR DAMAGE PICTURES

This refers to a problem with my car, based on comments on the “Hit curb 10mph brand new Corolla - mild vibration after” thread. Also, reference to the thread which I posted on exploding three tires in a very few days on my 2009 Mexican Sienna, due to road hazards. Someone on the Corolla thread commented that low profile tires cause a lot of maintenance problems. My tires are 235/60R17. Would those be low profile tires? I have never had tires explode like that before, ,and so I was blaming (besides being my fault, of course, for not missing those road hazards) on the Euzkadi tires. I have no i

Good afternoon all. My car, a 1997 Toyota Corolla has developed a problem I’m hoping maybe someone can help me figure out. Lately I’ve had a plethora of work done to the car. I’ve had the gas tank, fuel pump, all four struts, main oil seal, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, transmission fluid/filter, motor oil/filter etc, all replaced. The car actually runs pretty good, except, after having the main oil crankshaft oil seal replaced, the car has developed a problem. It feels like I got bad gas but I don’t think that’s the problem. If I press too hard on the accelerator, the car wants to stall. If I tak

포드 F-150

14세대 (2021-현재) · 2.7T XLT

브레이크 디스크 교환

I found out today I need to do the brakes on my f150. I went amd got pads and rotors before the ford dealer closed. But when I started i realized I should probably replace the calipers too. So I have a question, should l wait until Monday and get motorcraft from the dealer or go pick up some carquest premium ones from advance auto? I can live without the truck for a few days but id like to finish it up too. Im guessing motorcraft is reman like the carquest. What do you all think?

Does anyone here have experience with Front Steering and Suspension kits for older cars? [1] I’m helping a friend get a 1966 Mustang he inherited back up and running. The body is in nice condition. He’s looking at it as something to drive around locally, and not as a daily driver or for long trips. We got it running and it’s now registered. His front suspension is sloppy and loose, and has more steering play than it should, (even after tightening the steering box adj screw). The car is 1.5 hrs away from me, and we’re doing the work on his garage floor. We work on the car about twice a year. He

I am trying to troubleshoot a 4runner with 135k miles, auto, 3.4 V6 California emissions. This is the freeze data: PID Description Value Units 0x02 Freeze frame DTC P0420 - 0x03 Fuel system status Closed-loop, using oxygen sensor feedback to determine fuel mix - 0x04 Calculated load value 34.12 % 0x05 Engine coolant temperature 197.6 F 0x06 Short term fuel % trim - Bank 1 0.78 % 0x07 Long term fuel % trim - Bank 1 3.91 % 0x0C Engine RPM 2287 RPM 0x0D Vehicle speed 68.97 MPH 0x0F Intake air temperature 95 F So far the front and back Ox sensor was replaced and the MAF cleaned to clear a P0171 co

I have a 2005 Camry that I don’t plan on driving much. First time I have had to consider time recommendations over mileage. Should all time constrained maintenance, such as changing your oil once every 6 months (even if you don’t go 5000 miles in that time) be strictly followed? Opinions seem to vary from person to person. I can see how if you just let your car sit, that it could cause some problems. But I figured if I start it monthly and get up to operating temperature, I should be ok? Moisture can find it’s way into the engine and transmission, bringing it up to operating temperature might

혼다 리지라인

2020년식 · YK1 (2016-현재) · 3.5 V6 AWD 자동

엔진 마운트 교환

This question seems to provoke a lot of folks on the Ridgeline forum, where I originally asked. People either hate VCM or think it’s fine. I was considering a VCM stopper device. I see a lot of arguments that make sense on both sides of the discussion. My 23 Ridgeline RTL-E is smooth and if I didn’t know VCM was in there, I’d never notice. The reason I asked (am asking) is from the standpoint of longevity. I’ve heard multiple mechanics whom I respect say they don’t like it. In their opinion, it can lead to build up in cylinders and wear out rings, as well as premature wearing of engine mounts.

Hi all, I am new here and have a question. About 3 weeks ago, I purchased a 2003 Honda Civic EX Coupe, automatic transmission with 131,000 on it. I took it to my mechanic before purchasing it and he said it looked good. The test drive didn’t reveal any problems. A few days into owning it, however, I noticed this screeching noise but it didn’t happen all the time. When it happened, I was always taking off from an intersection or pulling out of a parking lot - never when I was just driving down the road or on startup. The mechanic couldn’t get the noise to happen but inspected the belts and said

혼다 시빅

FE1 (2021-현재) · 2.0 하이브리드 자동

배터리 교환

We have a Honda Civic Hybrid with 204,000 miles on it. It’s my wife’s car and she commutes fifty miles every day in it. Late last week her IMA (hybrid battery) light came on. The last time this happened was 7 years ago. The battery pack was under warranty at the time and Honda replaced it. That warranty has since expired. We are going to take it into a Honda dealer to have the problem evaluated, but we’re trying to do our homework in advance. My wife is worried that she’s going to be told that the battery needs to be replaced. There has been no decline in vehicle performance - yet. She tells m

Aarian Marshall of Wired reports The Righteous EV Owners Who Won’t Let Their Broken Cars Die | WIRED I heard about it on Marketplace https://www.marketplace.org/story/2026/03/10/who-makes-car-repairs-if-the-maker-went-bankrupt#when-a-carmaker-goes-bankrupt-who-can-do-repairs

토요타 캠리

2018년식 · ACV70 (2017-현재) · 2.5 자동

변속기 오일 교환

WHEN ACCELERATING FROM DEAD STOP IN A RIGHT HAND TURN UP-HILL CAR IS SLOW TO MOVE FORWARD REQUIRING MORE PRESSURE ON GAS PEDAL, THEN TRANSMISSION SEEMS TO BE HUNTING FOR RIGHT GEAR CAUSING A JERKY MOTION.

I have a 2003 Honda Civic coupe (EX) that makes a loud squeal. It starts when I just get going in the car, maybe two or three minutes into the drive. The squeal seems to come from the engine, and lasts for 15 to 30 seconds, before abruptly stopping. I seem to think its a belt, but not sure why its doing it or how to stop it. Not sure if its something I can ignore or not. Thanks for any advice.

My Pilot is lighting up a catalytic converter code on the dashboard. My Boch Honda dealer service is quoting $1,037 for the replacement part and more than $600 for the labor. Does that make any sense? The car has 180,000 miles on it. Should I just go with non-Honda parts?

At various time the car won’t start. You can hear the starter gear engage but almost instantly disengage. Starter and battery have been replace along with tipem board. The car has been towed 6 times because it won’t start for my wife only to start upon arrival at the repair shop. If you put the ignition in the start position and place the transmission in reverse or neutral, then turn the ignition off and then put the transmission back in park it will start up. The non-starting problem is infrequent and of course it won’t happen for the mechanic at the Chrysler dealership. Our regular mechanic

포드 익스플로러

2012년식 · U502 (2011-2019) · 2.3T AWD

냉각수 교환

Been a long day. Im not good at putting pictures on here. So ill try again. This is on my 89 year old moms ford explorer.its a 2012 she bought new. 3.5 engine. All work has been done at the local Ford dealer. 75k miles. I looked it over and decided to check the air filters and a few other things. I noticed the coolant looks pink, it should be orange. She has ever receipt from the dealer service. Its never had any work done involving coolant. Just tire rotation and oil changes. Sad to say she’s never even had them change the air filters. So im wondering why does the coolant look pink? 20260102_

and today i drove on some dirt roads and felt something rub on the bottom of my car so i inspected below and it seems one of the rubber boots is missing a clamp? any advice or input? my car clicks when it turns at low speeds but otherwise drives fine. i am asking can i just drive it and not get it repaired? i am poor and i am delivery driver for a living and dont have expendable income. IMG_6336 1334×750 150 KB

기아 EV9

MV (2023-현재) · 롱레인지 AWD

배터리 교환

In a recent column a reader asked about a plug-in hybrid and the status of the gas. The discussion also mentioned the possibility that the 12v “starter” battery could drain over time. I don’t know about other cars but the Kia Niro has an “override” that can use the EV battery to start the car. That was the situation when we originally bought our Niro. There is a button on the dash that, if the 12v battery will not start the car, enables the starter to pull the necessary power to start the car. The battery then charges as normal. We have had no starting problems since that initial situation whe

I have a 2001 Pontiac Grand Am SE 2.4 and I’m dealing with a no start problem that I can’t figure out. I’m thinking it’s probably the fuel pump, but it could also be the ignition switch or maybe crankshaft/camshaft sensor. This all started a couple months ago. The car was acting weird when I tried to start it. I’d turn the key and get dash lights and headlights, but no crank at all. If I kept turning the key a few times, it would eventually start. Then a few weeks ago, it changed to where the car would crank and start, but immediately die right after. About two weeks ago, it got worse and turn

20260512165142 1836×4080 1.02 MB 20260512164742 1836×4080 1.05 MB This 2016 Kia Rio has a a seriously corroded and frayed braided geoundstrap! I now have replaced it.

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2015년식 · ACV50 (2011-2017) · 2.5 자동

정기점검

I’m considering buying a 2015 Toyota Aygo that’s reporting this DTC code: P1604 (Startability Malfunction) - Toyota P1604 Code: What It Means and How to Fix the Startability Malfunction - Daily Car Tips (From what I’ve found online, it means that sometime, the engine either failed to start, took too long to start, or started and cut out within 2 seconds.) I’m trying to find out how serious this is: Could it be an intermittent problem or something that occurs only in certain conditions (such as in cold weather - in the last few months; I’m in Dublin, Ireland: minimum winter temperature about -4

when im on the highway driving for 30 minutes to an hour, the throttle feels like it just goes dead for a few seconds. Eventually after 5-10 seconds it kicks back on and the truck jerks and starts driving normal. It can happen a minute later or 15 minutes later but it normally lasts for just 5-10 seconds. It has happened getting off the highway when starting to accelerate after a stoplight and the truck wheels stopped and the truck didnt stall so i cant imagine its spark or fuel issue. it never has really happened on short drives or even idling for long periods of time. It doesnt happen around

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2018년식 · ACV70 (2017-현재) · 2.5 자동

쇼크업소버 교환

2018 TOYOTA CAMARY SE. STEERING WHEEL IS STIFF AND LOCKS IN PLACE AS YOU ARE DRIVING AND TURN THE WHEEL SO IT DOES NOT RETURN IF YOU LET GO OF THE WHEEL AND YOU HAVE TO PUT A LOT OF PRESSURE TO TRY AND TURN BACK AND TURN MORE IN TO THE CORNER,