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My Pilot is lighting up a catalytic converter code on the dashboard. My Boch Honda dealer service is quoting $1,037 for the replacement part and more than $600 for the labor. Does that make any sense? The car has 180,000 miles on it. Should I just go with non-Honda parts?

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2018년식 · ACV70 (2017-현재) · 2.5 자동

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AN EMERGENCY MESSAGE CAME ON TELLING ME MY BRAKES WERE LOSING POWER BAND I NEEDED TO PULL OVER TO A SAFE AREA. I WAS ON THE FREEWAY! I COULD NOT PUSH DOWN. I HAD TO USE THE PARKING BREAK AND GO INTO A LOWER GEAR TO GET TO THE SHOULDER THEN MY CAR CAME TO A STOP IN THE CROSSWALK OF THE FREEWAY EXIT. VACUUM PUMP STOPPED WORKING. WENT IN TO REPLACE IT AND THE BACKSIDE IS DECENTIGRATED INTO THE MOTOR. NEEDS CAMSHAFT ASSEMBLY/EXHAUST REPLACED, INVESTIGATE THE MOTOR TO LOOK FOR PIECES SO THEY DON'T DAMAGE THE MOTOR, NO GEAR AT THE END OF THE VACUUM PUMP, IT HAS GONE DOWN NOT THE MOTOR

My 2005 Buick Century with 353k miles gets a recurring P0420 code, catalytic converter operating below efficiency level. Twice this year, I tried using Cataclean, but with no success. I noticed a small hole in my muffler at the seam. Could a lack of exhaust back pressure cause the CC to operate inefficiently or improperly? Can anyone recommend a catalytic converter cleaner? Or, is it all snake oil?

I drive a 2004 Ford Ranger, which I’ve had for the life of the truck. For a few years, I’ve had the CEL on more often than not, usually for codes related to oxygen sensors and cat converter. I’ve taken the truck to a couple of shops and had O2 sensors replaced (repeatedly), but the CEL has come back on within a few days. I’m not at all experienced with auto-work, but I’ve been trying to pick up some new skills (in the interest of not going broke). So, aside from the shops doing their work, I’ve personally replaced a couple of O2 sensors, one catalytic converter, fuel filter, plugs, etc. Betwee

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