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This is in regard to a 1993 Dodge Shadow with a 2.5L engine and 3-speed automatic transmission. When the engine is running, the transmission fluid leaks between the engine and transmission. Is there a replaceable seal, or does the torque converter itself need to be replaced? Once the motor and transmission are pulled, is it very difficult to remove and reinstall a torque converter onto a transmission? E.g. alignment.

This article explains where engine carbon deposits come from and gives some advice on how to avoid them. The best advice seems to be to change oil at least as often as recommended by the manufacturer, use fully synthetic oil, and also use Top Tier gas. A study by AAA showed that Top Tier gas reduced carbon deposits by 45% to 72% in 5000 miles on engines with carbon deposits. While Top Tier gas doesn’t entirely avoid carbon deposition, it reduces it by up to 19 times compared to other gasoline. Talk about cheap prevention. Jalopnik – 29 Apr 26 What Engine Parts Are Most Susceptible To Carbon Bu

Hi all, These are the issues of a Maserati 1990 (Quattroporte) 422, 2000 SL.6 cylinders, fule injection.The car lives in Greece, and is in pristine condition. 1) The rpms go up when the engine is idle (no gear?) e.g when you stop at a light. Apparently this is an unexpected behavior. Could you give me a list of possible reasons? 2)When we start the car and/or go from 1st to 2nd gear, the engine doesn’t “fire” right away. There is a lag, as if the car stops. Thanks Vasso

At various time the car won’t start. You can hear the starter gear engage but almost instantly disengage. Starter and battery have been replace along with tipem board. The car has been towed 6 times because it won’t start for my wife only to start upon arrival at the repair shop. If you put the ignition in the start position and place the transmission in reverse or neutral, then turn the ignition off and then put the transmission back in park it will start up. The non-starting problem is infrequent and of course it won’t happen for the mechanic at the Chrysler dealership. Our regular mechanic

and today i drove on some dirt roads and felt something rub on the bottom of my car so i inspected below and it seems one of the rubber boots is missing a clamp? any advice or input? my car clicks when it turns at low speeds but otherwise drives fine. i am asking can i just drive it and not get it repaired? i am poor and i am delivery driver for a living and dont have expendable income. IMG_6336 1334×750 150 KB

I tried to clean off a blob of white paint on the rear side marker light’s lens. I guessed it was latex. It wouldn’t come off with fingernail or plastic scraper. I didn’t want to use a metal scraper so I painted on a bit of Citristrip, figuring it wouldn’t harm plastic. I was wrong. It seems to have stripped off most of the orange-ness of that part of the lens. I suspect it’s just as functional as a rear side marker, so I won’t replace it, but if there’s a fix I’d like to try it.

i looked in my hood and noticed this serpentine belt. does it need replacement? it’s not making any squeeking noises car runs fine for being about 16 years old. IMG_4074 1920×2560 686 KB

Mazda 5 - does 2x6k commute lately - previously all freeway miles. I use Mobil 1 and Wix filter - change yearly. Once sent it to lab after about 15months of use - Blackstone recommended extending the interval - but I am doing yearly, 4k. Since the last oil change, 1k, oil is relatively dark compared to Volt or 2017 Prius with 40k. So thinking of using it in my next oil change: add the Flush and run for 20min on the existing oil put some cheap engine oil (use the same filter?) and drain it again after 10min of idling chnage filter and put Mobil 1 What do u guys think? Saw some old threads - old

쉐보레 말리부

2019년식 · 8G (2015-2023) · 1.5T 자동

냉각수 교환

Temperature Guage doesn’t work, fan on motor runs, air conditioner doesn’t work when this happens and message says, “steering assist reduced, drive with caution.” Replaced temperature coolant sensor, still having problem.

So my 2002 Daewoo Lanos reached the end of its life (engine failed) about a month and a half ago. Once I diagnosed the problem and made the decision that the car is going to be junked, rather than repaired, I started looking for another used car with the features that I want. I ended up buying a 2004 Dodge Neon, which is the base model with hand-crank windows, non-adjustable seats, etc. Obviously, I am going to change the oil, coolant, and transmission fluid, replace the timing belt kit, replace the spark plugs, and replace all four struts. I will also check the brakes and replace if needed. I

I am planning to start using seafoam in my gas and oil ,how often should you a add it an how much.The label isn’t to clear about it.

Does anyone here have experience with Front Steering and Suspension kits for older cars? [1] I’m helping a friend get a 1966 Mustang he inherited back up and running. The body is in nice condition. He’s looking at it as something to drive around locally, and not as a daily driver or for long trips. We got it running and it’s now registered. His front suspension is sloppy and loose, and has more steering play than it should, (even after tightening the steering box adj screw). The car is 1.5 hrs away from me, and we’re doing the work on his garage floor. We work on the car about twice a year. He

My gear indicator needle occasionally fails to line up with the letters on my 2001 Grand Marquis. It’s a well-maintained vehicle with 125,000 miles. This issue happened a few years ago, and a shop where I lived at the time fixed me up. The repair lasted a few years. Today, I took the vehicle to the local Ford dealer, and they told me it couldn’t be repaired, that Ford no longer make parts for that issue for 2001. They said it’s just normal for a vehicle this old and nothing can be done, that even after market parts are no longer available. I really thought the indicator needle failing to line

Hi, I have a 2010 Mazda 6 car. I received a letter for airbag recall. When I dropped my car for service they said it would 1 hr to fix the airbag. Later they called me and said the parts are not available and it would take another 1 month for the parts to arrive. The provided me with an alternative car. They parked my car in an open parking space. When I called after 1 month, they said its an early stage for the recall. They are not sure when the parts will come. Is it ok the leave the car idle for few months in an open space ? Any damage will happen to the car ? Thanks, Vijay

2005 dodge neon. This was a problem a few months ago. The cable going from ignition to shifter was the problem. I removed the cable at the ignition, and it worked perfect. Till today. Again, the key will not move either way. Is it the ignition this time? is it something else? The starter sol has been going bad I assume for a while. once in a great while I have to lightly tap on the solonoid to get it to turn over. i assume not related. I have been planning to soon take off and get tested at auto zone. i started a new topic because the old one i could not find

닛산 알티마

2018년식 · L34 (2018-현재) · 2.5 자동

정기점검

Power seat - Whenever vehicle is started or shut off and the seat slides forward of back, the power seat makes an annoying, obnoxious noise… I thought something was stuck in the track but now I think it’s the motor going out. Guy at the local dealership said it just needed grease. He appears to be incorrect. Any thoughts? Thoughts?

Put in reverse goes great. Put it in drive it takes a while before it moves. Seems like it’s in second slow

I have a 2001 Pontiac Grand Am SE 2.4 and I’m dealing with a no start problem that I can’t figure out. I’m thinking it’s probably the fuel pump, but it could also be the ignition switch or maybe crankshaft/camshaft sensor. This all started a couple months ago. The car was acting weird when I tried to start it. I’d turn the key and get dash lights and headlights, but no crank at all. If I kept turning the key a few times, it would eventually start. Then a few weeks ago, it changed to where the car would crank and start, but immediately die right after. About two weeks ago, it got worse and turn

2004 Camry with about 160K miles (and I hope to drive it until the kids take away my keys in a few years). For the last month or two, sometimes when I’m slowing gently almost to a stop, I get what I think is ABS activation: loudish fast pulsing sound (roughly five pulses/sec; almost a vibration) that I can feel in the brake pedal. Maybe more likely on a slow speed turn while braking (I do a half-K turn to back into my driveway). Is that ABS? Does this require fast attention? Would my mechanic’s code readers be able to find any useful codes? (Or do I just report the symptom and let him/them inv

08 Prius. Had brake/caliper work done on the left tire about a month ago Driving around today I notice kind of a metallic clumping noise when braking coming to a stop from the RIGHT tire. After driving in the free way, my brake, abs, vsc lights came on. Is this relevant to the work done? I don’t even know where to start looking Ps. The clunking noise was repeatable for a duration and then its not that noticeable or any at all

I’m interested in buying either a Subaru Outback or an Audi A4 Avant (quattro 2.0 T) in the 2005-2009 range. Most of the cars I’ve seen available have between 70-100K miles and, between the two brands, the prices are pretty similar. Is a used Audi of that vintage (2005-2009) going to be significantly less reliable than a used Subaru? I know Audis are more expensive to fix when they do have problems. And I know Audis have had a bad reputation for reliability in the past. But it seem like they have gotten much better reliability ratings from 2005 on. I’ve had a Sube for 18 years and it’s been gr

토요타 캠리

2015년식 · ACV50 (2011-2017) · 2.5 자동

정기점검

I’m considering buying a 2015 Toyota Aygo that’s reporting this DTC code: P1604 (Startability Malfunction) - Toyota P1604 Code: What It Means and How to Fix the Startability Malfunction - Daily Car Tips (From what I’ve found online, it means that sometime, the engine either failed to start, took too long to start, or started and cut out within 2 seconds.) I’m trying to find out how serious this is: Could it be an intermittent problem or something that occurs only in certain conditions (such as in cold weather - in the last few months; I’m in Dublin, Ireland: minimum winter temperature about -4

혼다 어코드

CR3 (2022-현재) · 1.5T AWD

배터리 교환

I drive a 97 Honda Accord and just recently started experiencing an issue where while driving, my ignition suddenly shuts off. Sometimes when this happens I’m able to turn the key and get the ignition started right back up while coasting, but usually forces me to coast to the side of the road instead to throw it in park and restart ignition (instantly, no sputtering). This problem seems to occur most frequently while driving at low speeds or stopped at a light or sign. Despite the ignition cutting, my headlights and radio, etc remain on leading me to believe that the battery is fine. I’ve take

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2019년식 · CR2 (2017-2022) · 1.5T 자동

타이밍벨트 교환

2019 Honda Odyssey This seems outrages to me, even for Honda parts, and significantly more than what I see posted online for just parts only I got MSRPs from the Honda Dream Shop. You can maybe forgo the serpentine belt and serpentine belt tensioner, but I would opt in to replace them when you do this job. Not sure how much coolant you would need, so I just assumed 2 gallons Am I missing something here? Why is it so expensive? Can someone please take a look at the parts list I have gathered up and let me know what I’m doing wrong? Water Pump, PN = 19200-RDV-J01, MSRP = $269.83 (comes with Gask