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2026. 6. 30. 작업
Which knob setting best cooks the mold inside HVAC?
The reason for the odor is that water condenses inside the ducts when the AC cools the air. Though there are drains, there will still be enough moisture in the system to allow mold to grow. The heating is usually placed after the AC. This is useful for screen defogging: The air is first dehumidified by the AC and then heated, which gives warm, extremely dry air. The other way, dehumidifying would not work. So I think you can't cook your mold, because it's sitting in the AC system, which you can't heat. Furthermore, mold dies when the temperature rises above 70°C for a longer period, may be one or two hours. This heavily depends on the type of the mold. Coolant of a warm motor typically has about 80-90°C, but it's possible that it has already cooled down a little when it flows into the heating part of the HVAC system. And the air may also not be fully heated to the temperature of the coolant. So, it's possible that the hot air is not hot enough to kill the mold. However, the air would b
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Very hot outside. Started car with a/c already on full blast (factor?). Car started shaking, put it in reverse to backup and steering wheel VERY hard to turn and brakes VERY hard to apply. Turned a/c and car off, waited 5 minutes, started it again and drove home with no a/c and no further issues. This has happened before. What is wrong? Help!! And Thank You!!
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The contact owns a 2018 Toyota Camry. The contact stated that after shifting into park, the air condition system was activated, and the engine revved with the RPM elevated. The contact turned off the A/C and then turned off the vehicle. The vehicle was restarted, and the check engine warning light illuminated. Additionally, the contact stated that while the accelerator pedal was depressed, the vehicle inadvertently accelerated at rapid speed then decelerated without warning. The vehicle was taken to the dealer however, the contact stated that no diagnostic test was performed due to the cost. T
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Blowing warm air. Compressor clutch engages when air turned on. I replaced the clutch coil last summer. Low side reading ~39 High side ~45. Low side does react (very little) when RPM is increased, high side does not. Most of my findings lead me to believe that the compressor is bad but I also know that low freon will make my high side low. Car (98 grand-prix se 3.1) only has 49k miles on it and I feel the compressor should still be good (that’s partly my wallet talking as well). Should I gamble and try to add freon and see if it improves? Replacing the comp and related items is just not a fina
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I've taken my car to 3 different A/C shops and they were all unable to diagnose the problem. It's a BMW 1-series F20 LCI B47. Compressor is a magnetic clutch type Denso 6SAS14A. Symptoms: The AC compressor goes into "reduced mode" at higher-than-idle RPM. Once the RPM is dropped back to idle the AC restarts. If the RPM is returned from the "High Zone" to "Working Zone" the AC still doesn't restart, only when it returns to "Idle Zone". The actual RPM limit of the "Working Zone" depends on outside temperature. If ambient temperature is 20C it wor